UK: Fashion world raises funds for Darfur

It's been done in New York, so why not London? One might even say it's the latest must-have accessory for the fashion world: a collection in aid of Sudan's war-torn western region of Darfur.

During London Fashion Week, should you visit the exhibition organised by fashion promoter On/Off, the first pieces you'll see are dresses, hats and accessories created by designers in response to the humanitarian crisis in Darfur.

The collection is also being sold on fashionspace.com to raise money for the work of British-based medical charity Merlin, which provides health services to some 400,000 people affected by the conflict in Darfur.

Standing under the dazzling spotlights, amid the uber-trendy crowd gathering for the exhibition's opening party, On/Off director Lee Lapthorne told AlertNet he'd decided to appeal to designers after hearing firsthand accounts of the plight of displaced Darfuris crammed into overcrowded camps. "In my position, I can influence fashion designers to participate and give something back. This is one conflict we can't ignore," he said.

Both Merlin and On/Off hope that, as well as raising funds, the designer pieces will help boost awareness among new groups who may not know about what's happening in Darfur.

A red dress by award-winning Richard Sorger sports a map of Africa in black sequins, with Sudan coloured red, and Darfur white. On the back is emblazoned the word "HEAR" – a pun that plays on the idea of a tourist map saying "you are here". But, as Sorger points out, fortunately, you're not.

"I didn't want the piece to be too literal, rather I wanted to make something subversively beautiful," he explained. "I want people to see it and ask what it's about, to allow for discussion."

Some of the pieces – a bowler hat with a tombstone looming from it, and a white bag with a rope handle bearing the word "HOME" – pay homage to the 200,000 deaths and the displacement of more than 2 million people since the conflict began in 2003. There's also a black T-shirt dress with the faces of Darfuris encircled in a "bleeding heart" of dangling red ribbons.

Nonetheless, Lapthorne emphasised that he didn't want the collection to focus only on the negative aspects of the conflict.

"I didn't want it to be too political, because people get turned off by that," he said. "Here we have beautiful, handmade pieces that have all been customised – where designers have taken words of hope and peace, rather than focusing on destruction and death."

There's a long, black dress by the well-known designer Allegra Hicks which features five white embroidered doves flying out of the dark background. And a ripped T-shirt from Alex Noble festooned with a kit for repairing the shredded garment, including a reel of thread and the words "GIVE TIME" – an analogy of how Darfuris need space and time to rebuild their shattered lives.

"If there is anything our garments can do, why not? Everyone can contribute in their own way," said Aminaka Wilmont, who donated a black see-through kimono printed with "Darfur". "If you look close, it's clear there are bad things going on. I want people to see that."

The London collection echoes the Designers for Darfur initiative launched by designer Malcolm Harris and model Lydia Hearst-Shaw, which put on a catwalk show during New York Fashion Week early this year, raising funds for campaigning group Save Darfur Coalition.

But what's pushing designers to adopt humanitarian causes now, particularly Darfur, which until recently failed to grab the worlds attention?

"It's fashionable," flashed back Sorger with a grin.

The collection is on show in the foyer of the On/Off exhibition at London's Royal Academy of Arts, from September 17-20. You can also look at – and buy – the individual pieces on fashionspace.com.

This article was taken from Reuters Altertnet where it was blogged by Megan Rowling on the 18th September 2007.

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